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Camshaft R&R checklist with Valve seal replacement added 700 1990

Randy,
I'm a little unclear as to why the rope trick will not work.
It must be done four times -- once for each cylinder.
Since my engine is now sitting with piston #1 at TDC, and the camshaft is off, I would rotate the crankshaft clockwise about 90 degrees. Insert the rope thru the spark plug hole -- lots of it to make sure that when the piston comes up the rope presses against the entire top of the head including the two valves.
Then rotate the engine ccw back 90 degrees or a bit less until the rope presses tightly against the top, keeping the valve closed.

With the rope keeping the valve from dropping when the the spring is released, I should be able to change the seal in the same way as if air were holding the valve. To be honest, the air method scares me a little, because if the valve gets accidentally pushed down enough for the air to escape, the whole valve will drop into the chamber as the air rushes past the open valve.

Unless I misread earlier posts, others have used the rope trick to keep the valves closed during head-still-on-engine broken spring replacement.

The rope trick must be done to all four cylinders one at a time so that the intake valve is held up against its seat by an almost TDC piston with the somewhat compliant rope. The only way this might not work IMHO, is if the valves are extremely recessed in the combustion chamber and there is a significant ridge between the valves that the rope would run into before it pressed against the closed valve. I have not seen the combustion chamber side of a B230F Head, but since the valves are straight and next to each other, I would think that the whole head area is rather flat and thus able to be held in place by a big wad of rope.






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