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Wagon or sedan? They have different rear light assemblies.
For wagon or sedan, the first thing to check is the white bulb holder. All except one bulb holder are black. The single white one goes on the right side and belongs in the position for brake + tail light. It gets a bulb with two nibs on the base. Has two contact prongs for base of bulb and a third for the cylinder side.
There's a matching holder (black) for the left side. Has a total of three connectors, takes bulb with two nibs on base. All other bulbs and holders have a total of two contacts, with just one nib at the base.
If the above doesn't resolve it...
Get yourself an electrical multitester. It will read volts and ohms. Many also will read milliamps or amps, and also continuity (will beep or light if current path is OK). $10 for a low-end analog one, $30-50 or more if you like for a digital one. At Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. You'll need it to verify voltage is arriving at various points along the circuits. You'll also use it to test bulbs. Burned out bulb has infinitely high resistance and no continuity.
I'm not telling you to become an electrical engineer - I'm saying that it's worth your time and money to get this one tool and learn a bit about using it. Over the long run, this will save you many hours stumbling around guessing, and swapping bulbs etc. back and forth to see what works and what doesn't. Get the meter.
Write back, let us know what you found as far as bulb holders and anything else. If you need more then we can tell you some points to test with your meter.
And again - sedan or wagon?
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Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.
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