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Most relay problems on these cars are not because of bad contacts, but rather due to flaky solder joints on the the little circuit boards. You need a good powerful magnefying glass to see the crystallization at the soldered connections.
Now for your problem - Lucid has been trying to steer you to check (or resolder / replace) the fuel pump relay. At this point, you REALLY need to do that. One problem here is that one relay (fuel system) triggers another relay (RSR).
If you look at the RSR wiring, you'll notice that two of the wires are heavier guage than the other two. I believe one of the light guage wires is the power from the fuel system relay and the other small guage wire goes to ground. I also think that one of the heavy wires is the power from the battery and the other heavy wire carries the power to the injectors. So.... when cranking the engine, you should be able to read 12v when measuring across the two small wire contacts. If you don't see 12v, then either the fuel system relay isn't feeding it, or the the wire that should be grounding isn't grounding.
As for the heavy guage wires - one should supply 12v+ from the battery. Some people say the key doesn't even have to be turned on, but maybe it does, I don't know. The other heavy wire should show continuity to the injectors. If you ran a temporary jumper from THAT wire to the battery + post, the engine may start and run, as you have now bypassed both relays.
Just some food for thought. Good luck.
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