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Depending on which sending unit you have, you may have to buy an adaptor. The engine block is threaded for a 14mm thread, and most sending units are 1/8 NPT thread diameter and pitch. E-Gauges has these adaptors. They consist of a male 14mm insert and O-ring that threads into the block where the original idiot lamp sender was. Then the sending unit (the new one with 2 connectors) threads into the adaptor. You should not use any teflon tape on these threads, since the unit uses the threaded portion as a ground path. As I said, there will be 2 connectors on the sending unit. Connect the black wire that is already there (the one that was on the old sending unit), and you will need to remove the old connector from the wire and install the appropriate connector to fasten to the new sending unit. Once it is installed, start the engine. If the oil light does not go out, then switch the wire to the other connector. Start the engine again, and the oil light should go out. If it does not, they you probably have the wrong sender. If the light does go out, shut the engine off, and connect the green wire from the gauge to the other connector on the sending unit. If you have the rest of the gauge wired correctly, the gauge should read pressure. Is your gauge a 4 Bar, or a 5 Bar unit? You will need to get the correct sending unit for whichever one you have. If you have a B-230 engine, and a 4 Bar gauge, you will probably peg the gauge on the high side when running the engine. Mine idles cold above 3 bar, and runs about 4.5 Bar on the highway. At Idle hot, the engine reads 2.5 Bar.
Bill
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Those who beat their swords into plowshares will surely plow for those who did not.
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