|
I think I replied to your old post "I built a TAB tool"
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1285495/220/240/260/280/careful_poly_rear_tabs_made_tab_tool_today.html
I hope something helped.
My biggest piece of advice, DONT remove both ta's at once! Remove the sway, then shock, spring, and arm of one side at a time.
I encountered the same V tab problem, but I did not grind anything off, I (not very simply) used a jack and pushed the hell out of the bushing till it popped in and I could pound the bolt through. This took about 30 min for each side. It can be done but you WILL curse the lord's name. After getting them in, the poly deforms well around the V tab and sits in there well.
Exhaust- I removed two rubber hangers and the pipe dropped down about 3 more inches and was fine.
I didn't use power tools. You cheated. I am dumb and poor.
I honestly want to hear more about you getting the rear tabs in. Did you press in the shells only then, using the tab tool, pressed each side of the super pro bushing in, then the inner sleeve? That was the best way for me, but it wasn't easy. The first side I just cranked in with the whole thing together and the tab tool cut the poly (not much, but a little, after it entered the second ear and the force increased. I had fiddled for an hour and got to the point of just saying "F" it and cranked till it was in. The second side I was far more strategic, but it took forever.
This really is not an easy job the first time you do it. Power tools would ABSOLUTELY help, but you'll still be levering, pushing and grunting with the arms.
The torque rods and panhard are a piece of cake.
I would recommend pulling the torque arms first only because mine were shot, but the rear and front TABs were fine after 17 years. But of course I was changing them anyway...
--
89 245 'loaded' with a Great Pyrenees; 91 245 project
|
