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Using the foot hard down to ensure a start is usually needed because the engine is flooded. The extra air being sucked in gets rid of the excess fuel and dries it all out a bit so that when you ease up on the pedal, still cranking, it will catch. It's possible that the engine is flooding a bit when you stop the engine. A bit of heat soak can raise the fuel level in the float chamber to above the top of the jet/jets and the fuel just flows in. With the float chambers full and the domes/pistons off you should be able to see fuel just below the top of the jets. Just a couple of mm down if I remember correctly.(Actually 1/16"/1.6mm) This corresponds with the level in the float chamber so if its high you might be able to lower the float level if it's a brass one and has a tab that you can tweak a bit. The specs say 3.2mm for early production and 4.8mm for late. Changeover date not known. Plastic floats not adjustable but you could try an extra fibre washer under the needle jet as an experiment. Make sure your needles have the mounting end level with the piston. I've just had a similar sort of problem with a Saab 96. The fault here turned out to be a leaky float which raised the fuel level in the chamber. This meant that fuel flooded into the manifold when you stopped the engine and the car refused to restart until the fuel had evaporated. It got so bad it would flood out and kill the engine under light throttle. It had to be trucked home and then I found out the problem by chance. So. you might want to shake your floats to see if you can hear fuel and then dunk them into very hot water to check for bubbles/leaks. Not much you can do with plastic ones other than replace. You might even be able to see fuel in them if they do have a leak.
Ain't old cars fun!
Derek UK
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