|
Gentlemen,
Can someone write on the likelihood of the following having cleaned the throttle body ?
Car: 745T, 1990, 202K miles, automatic. 225/50 R16 tires on the rear swept alloy wheels. Conservatively driven. This is the same car that was the subject of the " long cranking to restart when warm" posts earlier this summer. This is a somewhat different post because now the car is hardly running at all, it lets me start it, then peters out in the driveway no matter what I do and does not want to restart. I put in a new FP Regulator the last couple of weeks, the old one was leaking a little gas into the vacuum hose and was the original FPR, so out it went. No change. My weeks-long delay in working on the car is due to my having been doing other necessary work recently. I do respect, appreciate and eventually act one everyone's input here.
Here is what I did: sprayed a full pressurized 18 oz can of carb cleaner into the 3 in. hose leading from the intercooler to the intake manifold with the engine running. Details: the insertion was by way of the circa 8 to 10 in. long plastic tube that came with the can of carb cleaner. That tube got inserted under the clamp just upstream of the intake manifold. The engine was started. Engine was idled via turning the bobbin by hand at about 1500 rpm to try to induce plenty of air flow into the intake , and then I sprayed the carb cleaner with the other hand into that air flow. At times while spraying this stuff into the air going into the intake manifold, the engine rpm seemed to increase slightly, and at times the engine started sputtering a little. When the engine sputtered, the spraying was reduced and the idle was kept high at that approximate 1500 rpm, and the engine recovered i.e. the rpm came back up and then I resumed spraying. I emptied the whole big can of carb cleaner into the engine like this over something like two to three minutes of runtime at high idle in the driveway. Afterwards, I looked for crud that might have been coming out the exhaust and settling onto the driveway, but there was none. I expected crud in the exhaust because this is what happened - the crud was just barely noticeable in the exhaust then, but it was definitely there - when I put Chevron Techron through the fuel system a year or so ago, but running the carb cleaner into the intake manifold as above recently produced no visible crud in the exhaust.
Here is also another question along the same lines: will I have damaged my Idle Air Control valve in the summer of 2007 by having soaked it in a can of engine degreaser for several days back then ? Afterwards, (!) I read the label of the engine degreaser more carefully and saw that the degreaser is basically water-based. Is it possible that the 2007 cleaning treatment will have exposed the innards of the Idle Air Control valve to water and, over the last 12 months or so, rusted the insides of the idle air control valve? When I took the idle air control valve off the car in the summer of 2007 to clean the valve, the metal gate could be easily worked open and shut. I had the idle air control valve off the car again once these past couple of weeks. That same gate this time was stiff and nearly frozen closed. I pried it open some and then it regained some freedom of movement. I put the idle air control valve back onto the car in that state. By the way, it does not seem to be that kind of idle air control valve that can be dismantled, either. If I pull it off the car again, and look at the gate, and find that the gate is not opening and shutting freely, then is that also a good indicator that the idle air control valve is shot?
Will Turbo 740 - is your fuel line check valve still available?
Thank You, everybody
|
