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It's actually fairly painless. Only tools are (I think) a big pair of channel-lock pliers, a big grumpy hammer, and a steel punch. A tube of organic brake grease is good to have... and a set of caliper hardware (just the pins and springs) if you aren't sure of the condition of your current stuff.
Rear of car on jackstands, wheels off.
With the hammer and steel punch, bonk out the pins retaining the pads and spring clip (remove retaining clips if present). Use the channel-locks to yank the old pads out.
Now you just compress the pistons with the channel locks, but use either an old brake shim, or the old brake pads to protect the pistons. I recommend cracking open the bleed nipple (with a length of tubing and catch bottle) while you compress. This keeps grungy old brake fluid from winding up in the master cylinder.
Then you grease up the back and edges of the new pads, and the holes for the pins, slide the pads into the calipers, reinstall the spring and pins... and you're done!
Once the car is on the ground again, start her up, and step on the brake pedal several times before going *anywhere*. This will set the new pads next to the discs again. Then drive off to your favorite length of back road and bring the car to a near stop several times to brake the new pads in.
Good luck!
-Ryan
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Athens, Ohio
1987 245 DL 314k, Dog-mobile
1990 245 DL 134k M47, E-codes, GT Sway Bars
1991 745 GL 300k, Regina, 23/21mm Turbo Sway Bars
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