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Its easy to get the motor & impeller out after you have removed all the stuff around it such as the outside plastic shroud on each side held onto the main plastic body by about 10 U-clips. Easy clips hold the plastic impellers on and the clips & impellers are easy to pull off. Dont mix up the impellers - there is a left impeller and a right impeller & maintain the relationship between them. That is say if the left impeller has its balance clip(s) at 12 o'clock and the right impeller has its clips at 8 o'clock record and maintain this relationship to minimise vibration. After the impellers are off there are 3 screws holding on the motor - easy to remove & extract motor but motor wires go up into control console - disconnect them at connector & pull thru grommet in main shroud then motor comes out. My new motor was not an exact replacement (an upgrade?) as it comes with a large resistor which has to be mounted near the motor using one of the motor mounting screws. Needed to cut/file some plastic to fit resistor properly. This "locks" the resistor in place - if dont mount it properly it can vibrate/rotate to come against main plastic body probably melting it. Also needed a new blower switch to match new wiring.
No need to remove instrument console if I remember. This job took me all weekend! PS Before you put the entire mess back together, check free rotation of motor & impeller in these situations: (a) Motor & impeller with no side shrouds (b)Motor & impeller with side shrouds & air vanes & heater thermostat copper coil. Also check that air vanes that direct warm air to cabin floor will move correctly their full partial rotation and not jam or hit impeller. Mistakes I made were swapping impellers and putting air vanes in upside down - easy to do and easy to correct.
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