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Here's what I would do.
Take the air cleaners off, set the mixture screws to 12 flats. Turn the nuts up all the way. To set them to 12 flats, I like to mark one side of the adjustment nuts with a Sharpie pen or white out, so I easily tell how many flats I've turned it. (I always seem to forget while I'm doing it.) 12 flats is 2 full turns down.
Start the car, get it to operating temp. 12 flats might not be the exact setting you need, but it will allow the car to run and idle.
You want to set the idle so that, once the car is warm with the choke in all the way, the car idles around 900 rpm. I can't remember if that's what the manual calls for, but I find anything less then that leads to an uneven idle. (I think it's 800 rpm if you have an automatic transmission; I'm assuming you've got a manual.)
Do you have a Tach / Dwell meter? If not you'll probably want to get one anyway, as you'll need it to set the timing. They aren't super expensive (can be found for about $20).
Set the idle screws so that both carbs are pulling the same amount of air through them. You can check that by using a piece of hose held up to your ear, and the other end in the throat of the carb. Compare the two carbs to see if they sound the same. If not adjust one carb until they do. There are other tools that can do a more exact job of this, (like the ipd sync tool I mentioned earlier, which is what I use).
Once the idle is set correctly take the car for a spin. See how it responds under different loads. Get up to about 20 mph, then floor it. See how the car responds. If it bogs down, then picks back up, the car needs to be a flat or 2 richer (down). Leave the air cleaners off for this test, so you can quickly get out of the car and make the appropriate adjustments and repeat the test.
This is all assuming your timing is set correctly, which it may or may not be.
Get the carbs sorted out, and if the car still misbehaves, then have a look at your timing.
Also have a look at your choke cables to make sure they are both working correctly.
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