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As Volvo From Heck has already kind of implied, only the cam has to come off. Read the FAQ article about how to do it without a shim kit. And note the following bits that I learned from experience:
The shims are good and stuck, by suction, to the tappets. I used a little, straight, jewlers screwdriver to pry them out. The shop that I got the new shims from mentioned using compressed air and a pointy tip on the air hose. But they cautioned me that the air technique can send the shims flying, and will send oil from the little pockets by the tappets flying all over.
When I used the technique in the FAQ, measuring the clearance, then measuring the shims, then calculating which new shims the engine would need, it did not work. The calculated shim values were still too tight, and I had to get more shims. It really helps to have a sympathetic and easy-going shop nearby that has the Volvo shim kit. The one near me had three of them and several hundred shims. You might want to rent the IPD shim kit, although I think the deposit they charge is insane.
Oil the new shims when you put them in. Wipe them all over with the same oil you will use in the car. Don't be sparing.
Always go with a looser clearance if you have a forced choice. To tight will burn your exhaust valves.
A good magnetic screw/nut picker-upper thing helps get the tappets out of their bores in the head. It provides just enough extra upward force to help your oily hands pull the tappet out.
Put each tappet back in the exact same bore it came out of.
Clean out everything you can in the head. Get every bit of the old rubber crud from the old hushers off the bottom of the tappets.
Set the clearances ****WITHOUT**** the hushers in place, put them in after you have established correct clearances.
Slather everything you can see with assembly lube prior to assembling. I think Redline is the best, but you might think otherwise. Use what you have faith in. And, use it on the cam/bearing shell journals every time you take the cam out then back in again, which may be several. On final assembly, coat the inside and outside of the tappets with the stuff, the top of the shim (make sure that there is plenty of oil on the shim and between the shim and tappet), the cam/bearing shell journals, the cams themselves, everything you can think of. And keep the whole mess oily, but clean, in the same type and weight of oil that you will use in the car. After bolting everything down, fill the head with clean oil. Completely. Try not to wash off any assembly lube as you pour the oil on.
Do an oil change at the same time, so that you start up the first time with clean oil and a clean filter.
Try not to think of how long the new hushers will last in the heat and pressure that they are subject to. You'll only get depressed.
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Scott Cook - 1991 745T, 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE, 1986 Toyota Tercel (Don't laugh, it is reliable, faithful AND gets 41 mpg!)
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