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You must have a record for the most post under one post.
I'm almost afraid to ask questions about your car.
I'll try to put together what you have done and we hope correctly.
You worked with Art and got the spark issue resolved.
You have spark at the plug end of the plug wires. Right.
You observed No. 1 up on compression stroke with a screwdriver feeling/touching piston through spark plug hole. The crank shaft line on "0" and the cam lobes over the cylinder pointing up by looking in the oil filler cap. All of the above is set.
The distributor rotor pointing towards the No. 1 spark plug wire terminal of cap. Note: notch in the base of the distributor, cap notch and all of its relationships. Good rotor button and cap is your responsiblity.
This clears timing on compression to spark.
Next is air and fuel. You say you have fuel when it cranks. We will assume pressure is up and holds unless there is a bad fuel pump check valve at the outlet of the pump. This is mainly for rest pressure after stops. Unless it was totally wasted, you should have injection pressure.
I think you stated you hear the frequency valve buzz while and during cranking. If not there is a relay on the fender next to the headlight dipper relay. About one inch square. It controls the power to it and the circuit of the o-2 sensor.
Air is the our next.
In order for the fuel pump relay to turn on the older models required the flap in the air/fuel/ flow control & fuel distributor has to raise up from air flow. The bellows above it cannot be loose or cracked. Check it all over good.
There is a connector on the outside of this unit. Again older models. It is to a switch on the inside. When the flap moves up, the main relay is turned on. It turns on spark and the fuel relay. No flap up, for any reason, your dead.
On your model or '78 and above the ECU does it from the hall sensor in the distributor. Since you have spark, I ruled that out as a easy fix.
If you are not jumping around things! The engine turns on the pumps and spark. You had better be starting, unless!
A. one of the above is missed.
B. Its so darn cold and your cold start injector and related thermal time switch are not giving enough or to much fuel. I.E. flooding! Power is on if relays turn on!
If this doesn't help you. This is not over your head but just like you said "a little something" that your missing to see. Another set of eyeballs looking over it with you helps break the cycle. Just talking and explaining it to even the dog, helps sometimes. Well depends on the dog?
Its called a learning curve. Yours just has a hill in the middle.
Just for more information: The Fuel Pump Relay also sends power to these.
The idle is controlled by the aux. air valve on the valve cover. It is heated closed by an electric heating element. Simulated warm up. Same for the fuel prsssure regulator. Not related to a no start. Just other running conditions.
You may want to check that grounds are good to the engine. There should be one attached to the valve cover and firewall.
Regards,
Phil
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