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Split motor mount? 200

Once you've added alot of HP to a 240, the motor mount situation goes from laughable to just plain pathetic.

The main problem is that the mounts are just so close to the motor. They don't have the leverage to properly brace the motor from torque loads. And they are awkwardly angled too, so the torque loads are largely in shear, not in compression and tension. No wonder they tear up so easily, they look rather stressed just sitting there.

700/900 cars got it better, they used the extra width in the engine bay for brackets that reach out farther and had mounts that are more in a vertical plane.

I've tried poly mounts on mine, and despite them (in all likelyhood) being stronger than stock mounts, they ripped apart pretty quickly as well.

A better solution really needs to address the overall geometry of the mounts by replacing the brackets. Maybe a new lower mount bracket that attaches using the crossmember mounting bolts and new arms that reach out from the side of the motor.

Or just a third mount between the body and somewhere higher up on the motor. A torque rod like most FWD cars have.

Or, like I had band-aided on my car for a while - just a simple cargo strap going beteen one of the engine hoist loops and the left side shock tower. $5 and the motor was rock solid. No vibration issues either.

I'mm currently build a pretty peppy 16V turbo motor for the 245 (getting close to the end of the project). And I thought I'd try these dirt cheap ($3.10 at rockauto.com) old Dodge pickup mounts. The look as though they'll fit with just a little work. Full rubber cush 99% of the time, until they get defeltcted over enough from torque that the metal tabs interlock and prevent the rubber from tearing.

--
'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 +t






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