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Lesson learned the Hard way fellow BBers. I have fought a no start on Inga my 1986 245DL with 257K miles over the last few months. All of a sudden after a long drive you could turn the key and nothing would happen at all.
Knew the starter was good, and checked the cable to the battery and the alternator, they were good. Checked the Voltage and my voltmeter read 13.8 volts so that was not the problem. Replaced the battery, twice in fact. Replaced all the lugs on the voltage distrution block under the hood. That helped the issue for a while, but alas it came back.
In an effort to defeat this problem, replaced all the ground connections from the battery to the block. At some point I discovered that if you jumped the car to one that was running that Inga would suddenly start right up. Tracked down a voltage drop to the spliced in gray connector on the firewall, replaced it with a connector like you use on a trailer and the problem went away, or at least since Inga would start up every time you turned the key so it seemed. Not had the problem in quite a while.
The saga of the no start does not end there, three weeks ago when installing the new voltmeter connected it to the section of the fuse box with fuses 1-3. The voltage never went over 12.5 volts on the meter with the engine running, and my Fluke meter confirmed the reading. Moved the voltmeter lug down to lower section of the fuse box and this time the voltage read 12.75 volts with the engine running. Moved the voltage connection to the pin on the back of the tach and the reading was 13.8 volts.
Was planning to get to the bottom of all this voltage drop stuff but before I did made Ingas first long tow up the daughters house 3 ½ hours up the road. The engine was still warm after the visit and the Wife and I were heading out when turned the key and nothing happened. Now it has been at least three months since the last time this happened. Grabbed my meter and measured the voltage along the fuse box since to check the voltage.
The problem was finally clear as a bell. The section of the fuse panel that went through the ignition switch were 10.7 volts or less, the constant power fuses 7 to 11 (I think they were swiched)were readying 12.25 volts. My son in law give me a jump and Inga started right up just as she had with no starts in the past.
The silly ignition switch was the problem, and who knows how long that has been causing trouble. Folks here on the BB has suggested this in the past by the way. Ordered a new Volvo ignition switch from FCP on Tuesday and it arrived in the mail Thursday night. Went out to measure the voltages on the fuse panel one more time Saturday before putting installing the new switch. Turned the key and nothing happened. Reached up in there and with the help of a mirror and a small screwdriver and replaced the switch. Not a hard job at all, I was dreading it at first. Your are on your back looking up and have to use a mirror to find the screws. Had it replaced in 15 minutes, turned the key and she roared to life right off the bat. Pulled the meter out and measured all the fuse voltages and 13.8 all the way around. Checked it today and no voltage drop at all.
To those who suggested the ignition switch to my past post a while back, a butyl stained thumb (and hand) way up.
Regards,
Paul
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