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[Your exact situation was brought up here before, but damned if I can find the thread using the search feature, so I'll have to crack open the wiring diagrams and repeat myself]
I'll start off with a few technical notes:
o All window motors are connected directly to one side of their respective window switches and nowhere else. Only two wires are used for each motor with reversed polarity (either +/- or -/+) being supplied depending on whether the window is to go up or down.
o All door switches receive their primary power (locally switchable) from fuse 8 which is in turn powered by a relay when the ignition is on (KPII). If any window works properly then fuse 8 and the relay are okay.
o All door switches (except the RF passenger door) get their primary power from the driver door switch pod. The rear door switches get their primary power through the rear window lockout switch in the driver door switch pod. If any window works from the driver door switch pod then power is getting to the switch pod and almost certainly to all pod switches. The RF passenger door is the exception -it gets its primary power directly from fuse 8. That's why the RF passenger door can sometimes be operated locally but not remotely from the driver door. The reason for this is that it's simply a shorter wiring run from the fuse directly to the RF passenger door. The rear doors are powered from the driver door because of the rear window lockout feature.
o Secondary (remote) power is provided on a separate pair of wires going from the remote switches at the driver door to the respective door switch and through it to the window motor. As mentioned, the way the remote switch is depressed determines the polarity on this pair of wires making the window go either up or down.
It's rather an elegant design, especially as all the switches are basically the same, and I'm sure the first person to come up with it was grinning from ear to ear when they walked into the head engineers office.
Now to the problem at hand. As noted, if the driver door window switch pod will operate any window then power can get to all pod switches, but won't get through any faulty switches. If no driver pod switch works (and the rear lockout switch is closed) and the RF passenger door window switch works (meaning fuse 8 and the relay are okay) then you need to fault trace for the 12 volt supply to the driver door switch pod on the yellow-red wire coming from fuse 8 (a broken wire at the hinge area being the primary suspect).
Now assuming the driver door pod has power (as you indicate in this case), the problem would be getting secondary (remote) power through the RF remote switch over to and through the passenger door switch. At the switch pod, if (as you indicate) you can move the RF switch into another position in the pod and have it work, then that switch is almost certainly okay. The problem would then be in the circuit (two wires) from the remote switch over to the passenger door switch or in the passenger door switch itself.
In your particular case it's probably best to start your fault tracing at the passenger door switch. Pull the connector off the switch. Connect the -ve lead of your DVM to a known good chassis ground point. You should (and in your case will) see 12 volts on the yellow-red wire in the open connector (pin 4) with the ignition switch on (KPII). Connect the +ve lead to the red wire in the open connector (pin 5). At the driver door pod, depress the RF switch for either up or down (I can't tell from the diagram). In one of those two positions you should see 12 volts on the meter -if not then you have a break in the red wire circuit back to the driver door pod switch. Repeat the test with the +ve lead on the blue wire in the open connector (pin 3) -if you don't see 12 volts in the opposite position then the problem is in the blue wire circuit back to the driver door pod switch. If both tests can see 12 volts on the red and blue wires (in opposite positions) then the wiring is okay and the problem lies in the passenger door window switch itself -try exchanging it with another single door switch.
For circuit tracing, one side of the driver door pod RF switch starts out as a grey-red wire going to one of the large connector blocks at the left A-pillar, then over to a connector block at the right A-pillar then becoming the red wire that goes to the RF passenger door switch. The other side of the driver door RF remote switch is a blue wire and stays blue through the same connector blocks to the passenger door switch.
Using a sharp pin to probe through the wire insulation you should be able to isolate a break, most typically at the driver door hinge area.
Notes on switches:
o If you want to start moving switches around for testing, one thing to know is that not all window switches are created equal. You can obviously tell by part number. You can also tell if they're functionally the same by testing for an internal jumper between pins 3 and 5. Note that 940's have an illumination lamp in the two forward switches at the driver door, but are functionally the same as non-illuminated switches. The four switches in the driver door pod are all the same and will (normally) have pins 3 and 5 internally jumpered. The single switches in all the other doors are the same and never have the internal jumper.
o Non-jumpered switches can be used at the driver door if the jumpering is done externally between pins 3 and 5 on the connector. That's something worth knowing as used driver door switch pods are typically sold as a unit and they're not cheap. Also note, you cannot modify an internally jumpered switch to function like a non-jumpered switch.
o See this section on window switches and repairs in the 700/900 FAQ.
Happy tracing.
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Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now
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