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Hi Dan,
I didn't intend to take the tail light discussion off board, only my whereabouts over the weekend.
There are two basic methods to identifying tail light problems. As with most electrical troubles, tracing the fault in the circuit is the first method, and replacing likely troublemakers in a process of elimination, the second.
I prefer the first method, dealing with tail lights, because there are several common reasons they don't work, all very likely. And it is very simple and sure to track the break in the circuit given the luxury of catching it not working. Just use your test light to probe each part of the circuit until you find one connection surrounded by two opposite results.
When you can't get it to break, then you have to go with the shotgun approach or likely causes, especially if it isn't your car, and you can't observe its behavior at all times.
Every tail light problem can be determined to be caused by a poor connection. Where and why that connection is broken is the challenge. At the top of the list of likely suspects are lamp socket contacts, flex board to harness contact, internal connections in the bulb out sensor, and corroded fuse ends. But that's only the cream of a long list of possibles, illustrated by each of the dots connecting 67 pieces* of metal making up this example tail light circuit in a 91 240's right tail lights.
*Actually more than 67 - I see at least one counting error.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
WARNING: The consumption of alcohol may lead you to think people are laughing WITH you.
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