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Yes, the firewall is a few inches further back on the 700/900 cars. Thus they have enough room for a distributor on the back of the head, while there barely any room there at all on a 240.
As for those bolts - what I do is furst take off the trans crossmember, and let the trans droop downa s far as it can (the head hits the firewall). Then remove the driveshaft. Then I use a socket, a u-joint, and then a couple of ridiculously long extensions to reach right around the end of the trans. The u-joint lets them lay right down along the top of the trans, reaching around the end of the trans lets you use a breaker bar and put some muscle into it.
One time I borrowed a real tranni jack from a mechanic and tried to use that on my 240 - no luck. It couldn't rotate the trans enough to clear that starter bump I reverted back to my original old trick, dropping a rope down through the shifter hole and using that to support most of the weight of the trans while I wrestle with it (enlist a friend to hold the rope, or secure it off to the side, as needed). With a floor jack to support the bellhousing after it's most of the way off. The rope lets the trans swing fore/aft, left/right, and rotate easily.
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'63 PV544 rat rod, '93 Classic #1141 245 (now w/16V turbo)
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