|
I did the fronts on a 940T a few weeks ago. Here is a link to my post about removing the plates at the pick and pull.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1372409/940/960/980/V90/S90/involved_accessing_brake_backing_plates.html
I have swapped out the front plates at this point. After reading the info in the FAQ’s I was a little worried about running into some trouble with the bearings.
You will need a very long breaker bar or a piece of pipe to add to the one you have. Those nuts are very, very tight and need to be put back to that torque.
Remove the nut. Use a pair of calipers to measure the distance from the outer edge of the hub to the face of the bearing assembly before you remove it. That is your reference for proper reinstallation. Carefully remove the hub and bearing assembly and set it aside.
Carry on with the plate removal and replacement. When it comes time to replace the bearing and hub do so with every effort to prevent any drag on the spindle which might push the bearing out the front of the hub. While the FAQ’s said not to add any lubricant to the assembly I did in fact give the spindle a light coating of grease to reduce drag.
Ease the assembly into place. Watch the bearing and if it moves you may find it necessary to carefully remove the whole assembly and reposition the components.
Once you have it in place and it appears to be correct use the calipers to check the measurement you took before removal. If the measurement is correct replace the nut.
I did not buy new nuts and caps. The original nuts were a locking type and still fit tight; no way are they going to back off.
I forget what the initial torque setting was on the nuts. It is in the FAQ’s. The torque to yield is an additional 45 degrees. Bottom line in my case was that after that initial torque setting the additional 45 degrees was actually a little more than I was able to accomplish with my 24” breaker bar. In other words the spec for me was tightening them as much as I could.
Good luck,
Randy
|
