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Of course the carb does not know, but the assumption is that you picked the correct size carb & then the correct size chokes.
- Those, too, were based on John’s recommendation after he’d made a number of refinements. My hope is that they’re what I want but I don’t have any data pro or con.
Your problem is that DCOE is a really bad choice for what you are doing. Your DCOE flows enough air for at least 300HP, are you anywhere near that level of output?
- No.
0 pump bleed is just not good for part throttle economy. Do you have the longest pump rod?
- Yes.
After it has the perfect needle, the SU is the best choice, but jetting SU's properly is a painful journey.
- I really do like SU carbs, thus my interest in trying one – but I don’t know how available different needles really are – just haven’t looked into it. I know that there are a variety available, but whether or not what would work best for this application… not sure.
- Also, a good SU and variety of needles to experiment with prices out quite a bit higher than the SC-prepared Mikuni.
You spent big money supercharging, I wouldn't cheap out switching to a Mikuni. What lives under the supercharger?
- 1971 B20; C cam, steel gears, ARP rod bolts and head studs, Venolia pistons +.030, plasma-moly rings (never heard of these until I received them), clutchnet 4 puck ceramic disk. F head flows approximately 30% over stock on the exhaust side, very close to stock on the intake side (this was a large disappointment). 4 into 2 into 1 header – whichever John was selling before he started making his own. Header outlet is 2.5”, exhaust is 2.5”.
- I’d guess that the weak(est) point in this engine is that it uses stock rods. There are a number of things I’d do differently now that I didn’t know enough about when the engine was assembled, and a couple things that I did request that I don’t think happened. It’s not perfect. It’s awfully fun, though, and once we got through some teething pains has been really reliable.
Best,
Cameron
444,122SC
Rose City
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