The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE Replies to this message will be emailed.    PRINT   SAVE 

Problem solved

Well it turned out fine in the end but it was an unusual journey.

I started off to the Pull and Pay and got about two miles from home when the wife’s daily driver (94 944T) died on the road. Coasted to the side called for a ride home and returned with a spare RPM sensor. The tach had registered zero the moment the engine died so I thought I had the problem nailed. No such luck. Swapped the RPM sensor and the radio suppression relay before I realized the pumps weren’t cycling with the initial key on. A bit of fiddling with the fuel injection relay and it fired up. Returned home and grabbed another vehicle and headed to the Pull and Pay.

The row the 93 944 had been in as well as several other rows were now populated with good looking SUV’s probably from the Cash for Clunkers program. Grabbed a couple of things from a newly arrived 240 and headed home.

Another short trip in the wife’s car resulted in a no start. Fiddled with everything again as well as replacing the fuel injection relay and eventually got it started. Decided a car with no central locking was better than a car with intermittent stalling/starting problems. I decided to put all the doors and trunk back together and live to fight that battle another day.

Left the driver’s door until last and was reconnecting the wires I had cut in the harness (for testing purposes) in the door when I poked around and found a green/black wire that had been cut off. I remembered that was the wire color that was missing from the five wire set to the actuator. Could it be?? What did I have to lose other than a fuse or perhaps a fried relay. I spliced in a section of wire. Sure enough the central locking system now works. Whoever was in there cutting up the wires evidently could not count past four and left the fifth wire buried.

I have no idea why the wires were cut and spliced. I do not think it was due to a broken wire in the hinge because all of the wires seem to be original back to a point just under the power window switches. They did use crimped barrel connectors to splice in the wires. I am just glad I was able to get it functioning again.

These cars does not have a switch incorporated into the lock mechanism. A rod from the lock is attached to the same rod that the mechanical plunger on the top of the door panel operates.

Thanks for your interest and encouragement. I am now moving on to what might be involved with returning the other 944 to reliable daily transportation.

Randy






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.