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I've read in the Bentley and Haynes about doing a compression test. In the Bentley it says you should reach max compression in 3 or 4 turns. The Haynes says to turn a minimum of 6. It took me 6 to reach 120 and 10 to reach 150. All cylinders reached 150 at 10.

What I didn't do was block open the throttle like I've read you should do. What kind of effect would that have on the test?

The car has a rattle and the heat shield felt secure. There is also a ticking valve. The car has been driven while the thermostat is not working correctly. The guy told me he thought the gauge was wrong because the top coolant hose wasn't burning hot. I told him it fails closed which would mean the hose would not be hot. The body is in good shape and it has the AC conversion to R134a. I've got another motor that I could swap into the car with a garage to use for the job. But do I really want to do the work?

I noticed it had some heavy steam coming from the tail pipe after warming up but it hasn't been driven too much lately. The exhaust has holes in the under axle piece but I've got a donor with new exhaust. Makes me think it hasn't been driven much the past year.

The car also has a cutoff switch that activates the fuel pumps and radio. Removing the fuses didn't stop the pumps for the test but removing the relay did. If I could get the car for $300 I might consider a rebuild.