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Both sides are hot so you have pressure in the system.
So now you need to check two more things. Engine off, and with your meter on the lowest resistance setting, touch the negative lead to the engine block and the plus lead to the compressor frame. You should have zero ohms, if not the ground wire of the compressor is broken. If you don't have that ground the AC Clutch will not ever engage. If that is good leave the wire on the engine block and down underneath the large air intake hose is a green wire that goes to a twist lock connector. There are two so be sure to find the one that goes to the compressor, the other wire goes to the low pressure switch. Measure the side of the wire that goes to the compressor to the engine block ground, it should be a very low resistance (mine reads 3.8 ohms). If you get an open or zero ohms you have a clutch issue most likely.
If you have both of those the only other thing to try before hooking up a set of gauges is to take a 20 to 22 (36 inches long or so) gauge wire and strip it back about a half inch. Bend the exposed end over and slip it up into the green wire that goes into the clutch. Strip the other end back about a 1/4 inch, and then start the car and let it settle down at idle. Touch the wire to the plus battery lead and give it a listen. If the compressor makes a loud click starts to growl then you have an issue between the wires on the dryer and the compressor.
If the compressor starts growl and you still have no cold air coming out of the vents you have a pressure problem most likely. This can range from a blockage, excess pressure or low pressure. It even can be a excess amount of oil in the system, with a conversion that is very easy to do. Without a pressure reading however, not going to be able to help you with the next step.
Good Luck,
Paul
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