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This is a compilation of facts, do's, and don'ts on injector swaps based on a few injector removals, refurbishments, and reinstallations over the years. The scary part is that I forgot a few of these items during the injector swap this weekend as I was in a rush to get the job done.
FACTS:
1: If you snag a set of injectors from the bone yard, assume at a minimum that they need ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested. They suffer of such things as internal rusting, fuel varnishing, and electrical connector corrosion.
2: Even though they live in a harsh environment, they are delicate highly machined parts, if dropped or if the box full of freshly cleaned and flow tested injectors you received look like they were run over by a fork lift, assume they are dead, at a minimum, retest them!
3: Do not store spare injectors in an uncontrolled environment, if you have long term storage in mind for new or good used injectors, oil them down, wrap them in oil cloth and bag them in a sealed zip-lock bag.
DO'S:
1: While unplugging the electrical connectors from the injectors, keep track of the rectangular rubber gasket that is supposed to seal the harness mounted connector to the injector. Make sure to reinstall if they fall out as the lack of them will result in connector corrosion.
2: To depressurize the fuel rail on 91 (I think, 92 for sure) and later, unscrew the cap from the rail, place a rag underneath it and use a small Allen wrench to press into the test port. this will depressurize the rail. If you have a fuel rail that doesn't have a test port, remove one of the clips that hold one of the injectors to the rail, then push the injector downward to allow fuel to escape around the top of it, naturally, a rag should be placed around the top of the injector to catch the fuel.
3: Before installing a new / reman'd injector oil up the O-rings before installation, this will prevent tearing. Use engine oil, NOT WD-40!
4: If reinstalling used injectors, replacement of the top and bottom seals are a must including oiling up the O-rings.
5: When reinstalling injectors, press them into the rail first all the way and then install the clip for each one, then gently align the tips of the injectors into the holes in the intake manifold.
6: After installing the two bolts that hold the rail to the manifold make certain that there is a ground wire eyelet under each bolt head. Also ensure that the eyelet ground is tight and can't be moved, ie. the bolt head is fully seated.
7: Measure the resistance of the coil for each injector between the two connector pins, if the Ohm meter reads open or short, it's a bad injector. The resistance should be around 13 Ohms, (folks correct me if I'm wrong on that value).
DON'TS:
1: Do NOT install the injectors into the manifold first and try to force or hammer the fuel rail down onto them so the clips hold the injectors in place. The fuel rail is made of soft brass that has been Nickel plated. Doing so can result in cracks in the rail that will leak as well as misalignment of the injector seals to the rail, resulting in more leaks!
2: Do NOT forget to ensure the ground wires under the fuel rail mounting bolts are captured tightly. If they are not, either one of them don't expect the car to run!
Yes, being in a rush when you are only home two days a month is an easy thing to do, so make sure you have a spare set of seals just in case you have to reinstall the old injectors after a fork lift runs over the new ones! I hope the above tips are of help to someone out there!
jorrell
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92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!
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