We really didn't need a video for those readings I asked for, yet how revealing they are.
Less than 40mV drop from the alternator to the battery proves no appreciable current is flowing, and the alternator is not charging. The only thing that would keep a good alternator from charging in that situation is lack of rotation. It ain't spinning. Or it's defective. Like we said back on March 11, you're lucky it isn't intermittent.
The B230 is the motor Volvo used 85 and up, so you'd only have a B23 if someone replaced your engine with an older one. The B230 uses a two-piece harmonic balancer or vibration dampener, which often separates. Mark it with chalk, crayon, or white-out across its two concentric pieces to see if it moves, or check with a moistened finger after you suspect it has been slipping.
Same goes for your alternator pulley. Make sure the belt isn't slipping on it or the pulley itself isn't missing its key. Monitoring the W terminal is just a proof of this -- you'll want to see the change in revs match the motor's, so you can tell if something is slipping without screaming bloody murder like belts usually do.
Now if anyone is disappointed for the lack of a video in this "sequel" thread, I provide this link just as entertainment. Another way to charge up a Volvo:
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Art Benstein near Baltimore
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