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Howdy John. Here it is all again with photos added. Good luck!
~jason
Notes on removal of the tailshaft housing and and replacing the bushing and seal in an 1989 245. Procedure should hold for older models as well. Also, some notes on solenoid wiring issues.
Drop the drive shaft (15mm on bolts, 17mm on nuts).
Disconnect a 17mm nut holding on the flange. Before you take the flange off, note its orientation on the splines. I don’t think it matters, but I did it this way. You need to take the trans crossmember off and get it out of the way. Before you take off the old tranny mount, notice the orientation of the crossmember and the mount. I would clean it up now and put the new mount (volvo only) on there. Unbolt the gold bracket that holds the mount to the tailshaft housing (TSH).
You can unhook the solenoid connector and tuck it out of the way. Now is a good time to check the wires for breaks and sheathing cracks. Mine was completely disintegrating.
Lower the tranny some. I used a 12″ extension and a 14mm socket to remove the two upper most bolts of the TSH. Then remove the other four bolts. Pull the TSH off and out of the way. Pry out the seal with something that won’t scratch. I used a mini hacksaw to cut the metal bearing out. You will see two slots on either side where you can cut through and the blade is safely out of the way. You’ll see what I mean. Note the orientation of the bearing before cutting. Also, note the depth of where it is driven into the housing. Clean up the housing. Scrape off all the old gasket. Get the TSH all pretty.
From the outside of the TSH (facing rear of car), drive the new bearing into the TSH, towards the section that would face the front of the car. I went to an little indie parts store and they had a seal driver kit that they pulled out and let me use. At first they pulled out a driver that sort of snugs into the inside of the bearing. Do NOT use one of these as unless it’s a perfect fit, the driver will smoosh into the bearing and expand it. Again, you’ll see what I mean. I flipped this thing over and it was just about 1-2mm larger than the diameter of the bearing itself. I tapped it in this way, in the direction I noted above. It will all make sense when in your hands. Then I tapped the seal flush with the outer edge of the TSH (the end facing the rear of the car).
It took me about two hours of scraping the old gasket off the transmission end of the deal, with a bounty of single edge razor blade and a whole lot of curse words. Wrap the exposed bundle of tranny goodness with a rag and rubber band first. I used some 400 grit sandpaper to finish. I got probably 95% of it all off. Some was just so baked on there. We’ll see how it holds up.
I used black RTV and just very LIGHTLY rubbed the entire paper gasket with it, then stuck it on the tranny side first.
Install TSH and torque six bolts (20-30 lbs)
Install tranny mount bracket (two bolts, roughly 30 lbs)
Install flange (33lbs)
Reattach and position solenoid wires.
Install driveshaft (37lbs)
Install crossmember. TIP- wiggle in the stud of the tranny mount into the mounting hole. Thread nut on one turn. Then loosely fit all the nuts and the crossmember on. When you get all four going, snug them up. Then drop tranny down onto mount. Tighten nut (hand snug, not too crazy). Torque bolts of crosmember (I did 33 lbs)
Have on hand lots of rags.
Single edge razor blades.
RTV
Threadlock
For solenoid: 16 ga wire, shrink tubing, bullet connectors male and female, elec. tape, plastic wire housing, heat gun. Two o-rings if you take solenoid off. Vaseline.
Headlamp to see where you’re scraping gasket.
Small prybar.
17mm (open) and 15mm (closed end) preferably long for removing driveshaft.
PBBlaster.
Something to clean bolts with.
Torque wrench.
Small jack for tranny and block of wood.
Lots and lots of rubber gloves and wear a long sleeve t-shirt.
It took me all day (10am-7pm) with two trips to the store and lunch. I also removed the solenoid and rewired it.
This repair is a good excuse to do the transmission oil pan gasket. I did that the day before. No need to clean or remove the metal mesh filter inside. Got a rubber gasket from O’Reily that worked great. Everything is all nice and clean under there now!
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