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"...thinking prepump and sender locked up"
Hi Nelson,
Before spending money on this, I would try either:
1) Power Test the pump by removing fuse 5 and connecting a 12V jumper wire to the right-most (fuse output) terminal. The 12V is available at the common (LEFT side) terminal of any fuse 6 thru 10. If the pump won't run, try #2 below.
[You can also "force" the main pump by jumpering the 12V to the LEFT fuse 5 contact (fuse removed), or force BOTH pumps with fuse 5 in place.]
2) Open the tank access panel and check out the common ground wire for the pump and gauge. It's a BROWN wire that, given 9+ years, could be corroded at either end. It's a push-on female spade terminal at the top of the sender, and a ring-type screw terminal at the other end, near the 2-wire harness plug about a foot away. If this ground is bad, it will kill both pump and gauge.
But in my experience, a dead prepump should not = a no start, especially with a full tank. I would open and reseat all the ignition wiring connectors from distributor and to/from the control box. That includes the ballast resistor near the right hood hinge, and both coil primary wires (Blue and Brown).
That's what got my '80 running after 10 years, mostly outside.
I'd also recommend a 12V test light for trouble-shooting these circuits. No ignition pulses guarantees no fuel with Bosch FI.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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