|
Alt is kaput. Replace just the diode pack, or the whole thing? I have a known good alt on a shelf, ready to go. Mostly tests OK, charging at 12.6V - 14V depending on load and rpm's. But fails when fully warmed up in hot weather, with high electr. loads ( cabin fan + elec radiator fan running + headlights).
About a month ago, a beloved family member used Sven ('89 245) to jump start their lame Hyundai. 2 liter engine, and a deeply discharged battery due to months of sitting. Jumped using the "usual" but BAD method of having the donor car running when starting the lame one. This causes the alt to attempt to generate all the amps needed to start the lame car, which can be well over 100A (as high as 400A if starter is partially burned out or weather is cold, and/or very large engine).
Couple weeks later, I drove Sven an hour to and from work, 2 days in a row, while my regular ride Civic was getting a timing belt change. No problems.
Last weekend, alternator failed to keep battery charged with another loved family member at the wheel, after approx 45-60 minutes driving in very warm weather, with cabin fan and electric rad fan both running.
Do I replace the whole alt, or just the Volt. reg. diode pack? How do I test to tell which failed?
--
Sven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock.
|
