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Re-manufactured Caliper not bleeding and other questions 200 1990

Hello All,

1990 245DL non-ABS. I'm at least the 3rd owner, and probably the first to take an interest in the brakes. In the middle of my first brake job, so far I've replaced the front rotors, pads, calipers and hoses, removed rear pads, installed new pads in LR, waiting on RR pending responses to this post. I've hit a couple of snags:

Snag #1: LF caliper won't bleed from the top or inside bleeder screw. Confirmed fluid runs all the way to where the lines meet the caliper. Outside bleeds quite well, projectile style, as does the entire RF, LR also. Using Motive Power Bleeder, ~23psi. Left it pressurized with the LF top bleeder open, giving patience a try. Gravity bled everything before hooking up the reman'd calipers. Both bleeder screws in question are clear, poked each bleeder hole in caliper with paper clip on the chance there was an obstruction. No joy so far. Thoughts?

Snag #2: Installing new pads in rear, RR inside piston won't compress. I don't have the best of tools on hand for that task, but suffice to say what worked on 3 of them (channel lock pliers, minimal force, done with bleeder open) won't budge this one. Had helper push on pedal as I watched for movement, neither piston in that caliper moved, but I also haven't properly bled everything yet(see above). Anything I can try before I have to remove the caliper?

I should also mention that either the booster or the check valve is no good, I get a whoosh along with the pedal sinking halfway down as I start the motor. I have parts for that, when I get there. Just throwing all my facts out to be thorough, also I read somewhere that some folks start the motor and use the booster to help speed things up.

Thanks in advance!

Frank






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