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Not on Turbo Brick. It is possible I've once posted about soldering fuel pump relays for 240+ models, but I think I did that only on this forum.
I'm in Auckland, in Winter it might get down to 0 deg C (freezing) and Summer (now) goes up to high 20 deg C (don't know F, normal room temperature is 21 to 23, boiling water is 100, body temp is 37). Temperature is very mild here, but humidity is a killer. In Cape Town (where I'm from) it gets up to 40 deg C sometimes but low humidity so at least if you stand in the shade in the wind you don't feel it as bad. But here in Auckland you mist have aircon to get rid of the humidity else it is so stuffy.
Current is relative. The contacts are designed to switch high inductive current with a small spark which burns off contaminants. The control module (and transistor circuit) has a weak pull-up with minute resistive current flowing so there is no spark on the contacts and so contaminants will not burn off. R5 is large enough so the current is relatively low which will not wear down the contacts but the resistance is low enough to get a decent current which will burn contaminants. Also note it must be a high power resistor (think the schematic said 5 Watt or something, too lazy to look now). You get white ceramic resistors which should be fine, but I prefer the gold ones with a built-in metal heat sink and screw mounting tabs.
Triggering on the correct edge will allow you to switch between traditional and electronic without resetting the timing.
I'll gladly help making the circuit, got everything you need. Perhaps send me an e-mail when the snow melts, then we can see what we can do.
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