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Troubleshooting with a meter can be done with the power off and the ohms scale--but you need a schematic. The name of the game is simple unless you have two problems. You can do it without a meter and with the power on, but you may end up with a lot of blown fuses. Both ways, the procedure is the same, you follow from the fuse and disconnect the other branches -circuit wires going to other things- leaving the one you think is causing the problem. If the fuse keeps blowing or the meter shows a short, go further down the connected branch and do the same thing and repeat until you find the short. If it is gone, go down the disconnected branch.
Having said that first I would pull the driver's door switch and check it out.
Volvo switches can be disassembled and cleaned if you are careful. I usually troubleshoot them by unplugging the one that does not work and temporarily plug it into another and plug the drivers door harness into a good switch- immediately you know which is bad, the switch or the motor harness circuit. Also look where the wires go from the door to the pillar to see if any damage is there.
The 200 and 700 are not computer control windows, so if they get hard to run up or stall, there is no current sensing computer to stop them. Some lube inside might help also keeps things working longer. Same for seats, my power seats will pop a fuse ever so often if a pencil gets across a track.
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