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I did this in January. Car's sitting right now because it had some miss I didn't isolate and lost a radiator hose on a mountain (@$#%$) but anyway.... I'm hoping to make a walkthrough, but I haven't started it yet.
Expect to lay out $500 for a 8/92 or later L-block. Anything made before August of 92 may or may not have squirters. Anything (turbo) 93 or later will have them.
Do you want an order of things to replace before putting in the engine or for doing the swap itself?
I recommend doing the Rear Main (make sure you mark the flywheel or flex-disc thoroughly! I put white-out in the threads for 2 offset bolt holes and on the edges), at least looking inside the water pump and checking all of its seals and to see if it still has fins on the pump. Sometimes they corrode away.
I would also be prepared to replace the CPS if the insulation is shot, and to replace the seals on the distributor - most engines come without the distributor.
You will probably have to replace the intake and exhaust manifold seals. I would definitely replace the heater hoses (look into the poor quality of the aftermarket heater valves) and it wouldn't hurt to replace the coolant hoses all the way around.
Timing belt and tensioner are way easier at this point too, so I would recommend doing them.
Feel free to email me for help (if the site email doesn't work, I'm bigwilliex and I'm a(t) "hot male").
Here are some tips you might like:
1) You can leave the power steering pump and AC connected and intact. Disconnect their mounts and they can sit on the floor in front of the crossmember.
2) To get at the dreaded starter and top engine bellhousing bolts, remove the engine mounts and let the engine down closer to the frame. This really opens up the space so that hands can fit back there. Buy a stubby 18mm 3/4" drive socket. This might strain your transmission mount, but I didn't have obvious problems with mine in the 60 miles I drove after the swap. Try not to smash your fingers. (I had 6 bolts in my bellhousing, plus one weird stud-bolt and the engine-to-trans bracket (6 bolts))
3) Plan for it to take a while - maybe 3-5 days with lots of delays. If you mix up parts easily, buy lots of ziplock bags and label some post-its inside the bag with what the parts are.
4) Two or 3 jacks and at least a pair of jackstands are very helpful. Try not to let the torque converter come out of the transmission. A 5/8" offset(? angles about 20 degrees) box-end wrench is perfect for the torque converter bolts, which hold the engine and trans together.
5) Buy some beer - but don't drink it till you're washing up for the night. :)
6) This is totally doable by yourself, but a cooperative assistant can be a lot of help.
Good Luck!
--
1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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