The message to which you are about to reply is shown first. GO TO REPLY FORM



 VIEW    REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE    PRINT   SAVE 

You may be using the wrong timing system 700 1990

Hey, yeah! No problem. A positive attitude always helps get things going.

As for manuals, I've got the Chilton and it's only really useful for rebuilding an engine because it has a ton of specs in it. I haven't done it yet. The rest of it is pretty plain and has plenty of errors.
I know a lot of people swear by the Bentley bible- for 240's, and there are excellent Green Books available for the 740's. They cover a lot of wiring and I think they cover other things as well.

I've gotten all my repair info from the forum and researching things on my own (and making my own mistakes :D).


Can you check the type of turbo you have? There's a section in the FAQ on turbo ID's.
For the Mitsubishi td04 that I have:
The coolant hoses themselves are steel. They attach to the cooling system via the rubber hose coming off the water pump and the hose attached to the coolant bottle. The rubber hoses should have spring clamps on them.
There is a water jacket around the turbo that the steel tubes attach to with banjo bolts.
The steel tubes can develop leaks from severe corrosion. I replaced one of mine. These attach on the sides of the turbo.

There is a line on top of the turbo that feeds it oil. This attaches to the engine block with a banjo bolt and to the top of the turbo with a banjo bolt.

The oil return line attaches to the bottom of the turbo with 2 allen wrench bolts(awful to remove) and sits in a hole with a rubber seal in the engine block. Luckily, oil is probably not leaking from there.

The OBD doesn't have any sensors for the turbo, so it won't directly say "turbo bad" or anything. It might tell you there's something wrong with a signal to the fuel or ignition computer. That could be very helpful.

You can unplug the knock sensor and the engine will return to normal timing. A faulty knock sensor can cause ridiculously retarded timing, which could make a turbo glow red - fuel burns in the turbo instead of the cylinders. Make sure you have good 91 octane gas if you're going to do this.
I had a turbo glow red on me and it did not smoke. I had a serious intake leak and bad mixture at the time.

Are you sure there is something actively leaking onto the turbo? Maybe it's oil on the exhaust manifold or a bad exhaust seal letting exhaust out?

Lastly, how are your fluids?

Good Luck!






USERNAME
Use "claim to be" below if you don't want to log in.
PASSWORD
I don't have an account. Sign me up.
CLAIM TO BE
Use only if you don't want to login (post anonymously).
ENTER CAPTCHA CODE
This is required for posting anonymously.
OPTIONS notify by email
Available only to user accounts.
SUBJECT
MODEL/YEAR
MESSAGE

DICTIONARY
LABEL(S) +
IMAGE URL *
[IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)]

* = Field is optional.

+ = Enter space delimited labels for this post. An example entry: 240 muffler


©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2022. All material except where indicated.


All participants agree to these terms.

Brickboard.com is not affiliated with nor sponsored by AB Volvo, Volvo Car Corporation, Volvo Cars of North America, Inc. or Ford Motor Company. Brickboard.com is a Volvo owner/enthusiast site, similar to a club, and does not intend to pose as an official Volvo site. The official Volvo site can be found here.