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Low idle for the first 10 seconds to 2 minutes of startup. Cause? 200 1984

1984 244dl B23F M46 LH2.1?

If you want to skip the intro, skip to the "**TLDR starts here**".

My 240 started doing this fantastic thing where it idles so low that it will almost die. I suspect a vacuum leak, dirty injectors/air filter (I'm a bad volvo dad to this car), or that the very beat-on IAC has finally died.

I took apart, inspected, and disassembled the IAC last year. The commutator is verrrry pitted and I'd be surprised if it worked at all. But my idle did seem to be functional for a while.

Here's what happens: Crank(normal Do-tik-tik-tikWHooooom).
Idle is about normal for a few seconds, then it drops so low that the tach is pegged at the bottom and just twitching. I can give it gas, and it responds, then drops quickly back down, sometimes to 200, sometimes to the same spot, depending on temperature.
I can drive it just fine, but if it's stone cold (sat for 3+ hours in 55F) it might stall the first few times I come to a stop. Sometimes it will almost stall, the warning lights come on, then WHOOOm it catches itself and comes back up to about 1000 rpm and drops back to below-normal idle. It's not a 1500-200-1500-200 sweep.

I set the base idle with a jumper wire to the (forget the color right now) pigtail under the hood to a ground a while back, and this is new since then. Grounding the same pigtail does nothing to the idle, and sometimes it is up around 1000 when the car is warm and it's 75F ambient.


**TLDR starts here**
I need to clean the throttle body, clean the pigtail contacts, check/replace the air filter, and feed it some fuel injector cleaner.


1) Does the black idle adjust knob feed in outside air or just bypass the throttle plate with metered air? It seems to affect the power output in a way that suggests it affects the mixture.
2) Is it normal that corrosion can keep the pigtail from grounding? The contacts aren't dissolving or anything, but they're not shiny metal at all.


Happy Bricking everyone






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