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1995 normally aspirated, 120k, EGR with Pulse Air, LH Jetronic, EZ116K, White 5 door, Tinted windows and soon to have 16" Hydras.
Blower into the tail pipe and a dish soap spray revealed air leaks at the exhaust manifold to downpipe and several leaks at the manifold to the head around #1 and #2 even though #4 top stud has been broken off since I owned the car.
Air leak at the manifold to down pipe:
The leak could not be stopped with two layers of aftermarket gaskets. I do have a Volvo gasket but I had to try the double aftermarket gaskets after a single layer allowed leaks. I think I’ll have problems with a single Volvo gasket. Three gaskets? I cannot figure out why two aftermarket gaskets couldn’t stop the leak. Any ideas?
EGR pipe connection at the manifold:
There were lots of bubbles at the bottom of #1 manifold connection. Can the EGR pipe connections at the manifold leak? How are they repaired? While off the car will duct tape the manifold ports and bubble test to get a better idea.
Manifold:
Two weeks of soaking with PB Blaster the nuts except for two studs came off, maybe too easy. Issue, top #4 stud is broken flush with the head. I found a mechanic that would remove the remaining stud for 1 to 2 hours labor plus diamond bits and a threaded insert if I remove the manifold.
But why should I let someone else ruin my fun.
I am armed with a 90D angle drill, diamond tipped dremel bits and drill bits if required. I plan on cutting a center point in the stud, then a slot, hoping I can tap with a punch and remove with a flat blade bit. If not, I don’t think I’d really risk breaking a drill bit off in there.
I have a locking cam style stud remover from Harbor Freight so it has to be the,sarcastically, finest tool, to remove the studs, along with Volvo studs and gaskets.
Next battle…the EGR pipe connection to the manifold. I hope there is room underneath.
Tom
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