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As I think I mentioned in my post, the unit is spring loaded and there should be no draging or hesitation operating. It snaps open smoothly and snap closed with a tat as Art said. With the unit getting 12.6 to 14 volts with the OBD test it will go Tat-tat.
Looking through the side port, you should see an aluminium cylinder. You should be able to stick the tip of your little finger in there and wiggle it off the stop and the spring close it up. No need for a voltage test but it does not test it electrically. Once it is open a little, you can use a pencil and push it all the way open. It should move and snap closed smoothly.
With a good 9 volt it opens half way which is where it normally operates on an idling engine.
Use the OBD if the nine volt brings on suspicions. You can still put on the big battery too. It will thunk open all the way with more than tat. What ever blows up your skirt, to confrim in your mind, that it is good.
I like options too! One is staying way back from helping to make someones boat payments.
I should someday, tell a recent story that happened with my sister-in-laws Land Rover! A sham went down and now the vehicle is headed for the dismantlers.
'98 GM motors were "dirt" back then. This, I was told this by an outside source. It was his term that I never heard before.
Also watch out for oils with the new SN designations, absoulutely no zinc phosphates in there now. Maybe the "N" stands for NONE.
Now cams are failing and wear showing up on cams with bonnet valve systems with the bucket shims. Hello!
This is happening on some rebuilt V8 engines that do not have roller lifters too. What a trade off to save catalytic converters!
Back on subject now!
When any of these LH cars first start. You should hear your engine race up for a second or so, the idle down to the preset of 700 rpm. This should happen every time you start the car!
The nine volt test shows me the normal position under the worse electrical condition. I mentioned you will have less current. I just forgot to put down that it was the other reason I use it.
So, for me it will show me how the spring operates with out being slamed by slighly more voltage/current which the OBD test does. The OBD test just confrims that there is a unit attached and it works if you hear it. You do not get the hands on, look and feel, of how it operates at halfway or even less.
The OBD does not have a way to know either. Except with another idling mishap code number which just happens to point many other variables. Just remember, the OBD is a blinking comatose mechanic.
If you think it is sticking at all you should look into replacing it.
I have opened up early models that have a lot of miles on them. I have found that the brushes wear grooves into the armature. The worn brushes hit the end of their grooves less than where they ride normally. They are more narrow but the brushes are not. So, it is my assumption that sticking can occur at half way or higher. On those units, they get powered both ways so they can stick either way. You can get a high idle or no idle symptom.
By the time it has done all this wearing the brushes are done too!
On the newer '90 and up cars, the spring eliminates one end but not the low idle end. So, it will have the tendency to stick shut or up halfway or less. Most likly a stall will occur and more so, if there is an air leakage.
In a way I think it is better for safety reasons. It will fail shut. In the case of an automatic transmission, it could stop a more thrilling ride, or having to use the brakes heavier, during a hill descent, if it did not work that way.
Just a note, I have several units of both types cleaned from the Pick & Pulls as backups. I have noticed that the Pick & Pulls are getting more costly because they are seeing them get pulled.
The last one I paid 23.00 for. I left the rubber mount on it just because it is rubber and it was the same cost. Also, any bolts I pull their mine, anymore!
Recycling or hoarding, what is a man to do, go figure?
Phil
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