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Did you get a printout of the numbers? The equipment many use now has that feature, and gives you the factory numbers and the actual readings from your car.
Although the strut has no camber and caster adjustment as configured, some mod it and dial in whatever number they want. eg. Caster, if you either,
A. use poly bushings of a thicker size on the control arm stay where it passes through the control arm, you change the caster, or
B. Some put a washer behind the rear bushing, which does the same thing. And,
C. Camber can be modded in several ways. One is to simply knock out the front mount bolt, pivot the upper strut mount inwards up to approx. 23 mm, and redrill the bolt hole. Voila, and with some basic geometry you can calculate how far to move it. 23mm gives in the neighborhood of -2deg camber, which is a lot.
There was a Volvo bulletin on doing something like this to cope with outer edge tire wear.
Some don't redrill the hole, they slot the front hole in the tower towards teh inside, thus allowing a similar adjustment to the 240.
Some shops still use the old stuff that clip on the wheel and have a bubble to measure, and a trammel bar for toe. That can work well actually, if done correctly. Toe should be done on each side so the wheel comes out exactly straight, but some only check total toe which can lead to your situation.
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