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You would not put boost on a cast piston. The Duralites are shorter than stock, so you have to mow the top of the block to get the quench height & compression you want, but that should be fine with an F head.
Loose the Clifford header. 4-1 does not work without a big cam & some DCOE's.
Blower: You want 3.56" bore maximum, I don't even like going over 3.625"/92mm for an NA motor
I'm thinking that a forced-induction 2.2 would annihilate my overdrive and my driveshaft. Which would be the first to go?
The shaft would be OK & the U-Joints aren't that small. I like to use a small shaft that has the big flange & U-J at the diff, that's the weak U-J. The big E shaft doesn't actually fit the car properly.
If you have the manifold for a DGV, I would adapt a 500 2bbl Holley to it.(minor mods needed) Ultimately, DCOE's or DHLA's are the only way to go.
The B20F head is nicely ported and polished with big valves and double springs.
What size valves? What does it flow?
I WANT a low-revving motor. Performance increases above 5000 rpm will never matter.
Mitsubishi rod stroker. 4G63 rods ride on a 45mm crankpin, which is 9mm smaller than the stock B20 pin, so that gives you 89mm stroke. 4G54 pistons coupled to those rods give the right height. 4G54 pistons start at 91.1mm, so that gives you 2320. They go +0.5, +1.0 & +1.5, so 92.1x89 = 2371cc
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Three 164's, Two 144's, One 142 & a partridge in a pear tree.
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