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Absolutely you don't want to get flamed if you're going to be playing with gas.
For a North American market 1995 940 (base) you'll almost certainly have a B230FD with Bosch LH 2.4 injection. Production with the Regina system ended in 1994. The 1995 Volvo 940 green electrical manual only references LH 2.4 and if any Regina cars were produced they would normally be documented.
Before going to all the effort of opening up the fuel rail, it's better to check fuel pump functionality starting at the relay tray.
Even before that, in a quiet spot and with the driver door open, lean your head out a bit while you turn the ignition on (KPII). From underneath and towards the rear, you should hear a buzz lasting for about one second as the ECU momentarily turns on the fuel pump to pressurize the system. If you hear a buzz then the relay and fuel pump are not suspect. In that case you should turn your attention further upstream toward the engine. And still before opening up the fuel rail, the next thing I'd do is pull a spark plug after a good spell of cranking to check for a wet plug. If it's wet then focus your attention on the ignition side. If it's dry then focus your attention on the fuel delivery side. Refer to the FAQ or post back if you need further details.
Now if you don't hear the pump buzzing just before cranking then you'll next want to isolate whether it's the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay. Proceed as follows:
o Fashion yourself a short jumper wire with a male spade terminal crimped on each end. In a pinch, a short piece of household 14-gauge solid copper wire with both ends stripped back about 3/8 inch will do.
o Remove the fuel pump relay. For LH 2.4 on a B230FD it's the small blue (or green) cube shaped relay, front row, second from the right.
o On the relay, note the terminals marked 30 and 87 (not 87a). In the relay socket, insert the jumper wire into the corresponding terminals (socket pins #1 and #3). You should immediately hear the fuel pump start to run. If so, then it was the relay. I found new ones a bit pricey, so I was comfortable going with a good used one as they don't fail all that often (hint: less used ones might best be found in 850/S70/S90s).
o If the pump is now running you should be able to start the engine. You can even temporarily drive the car. Just remember to remove the jumper wire to shut the pump off after you turn the engine off. Note that there is an increased safety risk as the ECU will not be able to turn the fuel pump off if the engine stops running in an accident.
o If you still can't hear the pump running then it's most likely the fuel pump itself. As you know, for your car there's a single main fuel pump in the tank attached near the bottom end of the fuel pickup assembly installed into the top of the tank. As Spooky Jay noted, it's accessible through a small hatch located just behind the back seat. With a wagon, you have to remove the main floorboard assembly to expose the hatch. As you’ll see when you flip the rear seats forward and lift the flaps, the front is secured by a screwed flange. At the rear, just forward of the hinge, it's clipped onto tabs underneath. Once the front flange is released, pull the whole assembly back to slide it off the tabs. After that, follow the instructions in the FAQ for fuel pump replacement. The Volvo unit is made by Bosch –perhaps a bit pricey from Volvo so do shop around (hint: Tasca, Borton). There are cheaper aftermarket pumps, such as the Walbro (Hella) one -definitely not as beefy as the Bosch, but so far I've had no problems.
Even with a high mileage car it would be relatively rare to have a fuel filter suddenly plug and prevent starting, except perhaps after extended storage. The first sign would normally be stumbling and hesitation during peak fuel demand periods such as acceleration. If the filter hasn't been replaced in living memory then it's always a good idea to put it in your list.
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Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 How time flies when you're having fun
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