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The CPS, crank position sensor, in LH2.4 is the device that tells the ignition system when to fire. It is quite common for the insulation on the pigtail between the senor and the plug to break or split, allowing moisture to enter the harness and eventually damage the sensor. I've also seen mis-routed pigtails chafed through until wires are touching something metallic.
While a bad CPS can certainly cause a no start, and temperature may be a factor, you've said nothing about occasional cutting out, which is also a known symptom. Thus, I'm going to say that your problem may be elsewhere.
What were the results of the relay change? How much cranking do you have to do warm to get the car to start? Do you smell gas? Have you verified that both pumps are working? When the car runs, is the main pump under the car noisy and uneven? If so, that's a good sign your in-tank pump may be out. With the car on, insert a tube into the filler neck of the tank and listen for the in-tank pump's steady buzz/hum. Does the problem occur only when the car is below 1/2 tank? If so, the pickup connector hose in the tank may be bad.
If you are sure both pumps are working, and you have ruled out any problems with the CPS's pigtail, a little more diagnostic work is in order. Next time the car won't start hot, check the plugs and see if they are gas fouled. A bad engine coolant temperature sensor (about which I'm about to post elsewhere) can cause all sorts of problems, though most common is too rich when cold--with gas fouled plugs. However I have seen them go the other way too. The ECT is the rear-most of the two temp sensors, located under the #3 intake runner. It's a good idea to make sure the plug is intact and that the contacts aren't damaged.
Check your fuel pressure regulator. Quickest check is to pull off the vacuum hose on the front of the capsule and see if there is dampness in the nipple or the hose. If hot, the FPR is sending all the fuel back to the tank, there will be insufficient working pressure to start the car.
Next step would be to check the check valve at the main fuel pump outlet. This is a very common source of hard hot start problems. When the injection system does not hold the recommended "at rest pressure", the car is hard to start hot.
That should give you a few things to experiment with. Post back, I'm sure the board will help you find a solution.
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