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1991 VOLVO WAGON-4CYL, 5 SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION 200

Hi Chris,

What Joseph says.

Since you are in NY-state, unless the 1991 240 wagon (estate) was garaged, washed of road salt and grime, and undercoating treated every so often, search and read the brickboard articles on how to discover rust and when to decide whether you are able to treat the rust. Some corrosion can move along slowly while other rust cases can go quickly.

See Art Benstein's fabulous www.cleanflametrap.com. The flame trap is a sieve in the vacuum line assembly between the oil separator breather box and the air intake port (manifold). If you see an oily, dirty, and well cakes greasy grime, a clogged flame trap can be the main cause. A clogged flame trap can cause innumerable leaks at all oil-sealing engine gaskets (not the head gasket unless the head is warped or that gasket is failed) and seals. A clean, freely breathing flame trap reduces oil leaks. You'll have gasket to replace. At the very least, the front timing cover gasket, the three front engine seals, that you'll replace with a new timing belt and water pump.

Perform an engine compression test to check for weak compression rings or poorly sealing (intake and exhaust) valves.

Almost 100% you have to replace the usual 240 wear items at 160,000 miles, unless replaced already. Hopefully you have records. Search the brickboard for this information.

Most specifically:
- Is the brake fluid clean and a clear pale yellow or so. If it is black, you may get lucky replacing the break fluid or you may have corrosion in the break calipers (usually the rear calipers) and the master cylinder. A firm break pedal is a plus even with dark or worse brake fluid.
- Inspect the top of the strut mounts. Do you see cracking or separation? You may have to replace the suspension bushings front and rear. Essentially, all rubber bushings including the rubber drive shaft carrier (and possibly the bearing).
- Locate and inspect other wear items on the 1991 Volvo 240.
- Check the fuel lines from the gas tank fuel sending unit at the top of the tank (accessible from the cargo area floor) to the main pump input. Also, the top of the fuel sending unit can get rusty. Refer such fuel repairs to a qualified mechanic that knows to use brass tools when futzing with the fuel sending unit (is the bung tool to remove the fuel sending unit made from brass?)
- Check the OBD codes stored in the Bosch L-jet fuel injection and the Bosch EZK ignition system computers. You'll find the black plastic diagnostic box with LED and probe on the driver side rear inner fender near the hood hinge. You can do this before you buy the car.

Unfortunately, no comprehensive 240/260 series FAQ exists as you see with the 700-900 series FAQ on this and other sites in various editions. Review the 700-900 FAQ sections that advise on what to consider when buying a used 700-900 Volvo. Some of that info directly applies to the 240 engine and engine control systems, transmission, some of the electrics, and drive train.

Yea, a squeaking or slow heater blower may indicate it is the original blower.

At any rate, inspect the car or have someone learned and trustworthy to inspect it for you. You'll know your buy in and what really needs to be replaced. You can then offer less for the car to make up for the wear item replacement and care to make it a safe daily driver.

The 240s are much simpler than the front wheel drive models you own or have made mention in your prior posts. They are simpler and easier to deal with over the 700-900 series, yet the 240s are a smaller car.

There's more, but I think that does it.

Research the brickboard for more info. Could you post a few pics of this Volvo you are looking at to buy?

Questions?

Hope that helps.

MacDuff and his Volvo 240s three.
--
Only car make and model I've ever owned: Volvo 240.
Currently owned, beloved, operating, and getting better all the time(!):
1990 240 (245) DL (B230, M47 II. No bigger heart a Volvo 245 has.)
1991 240 (244) (B230, M47 II, Moonroof. Grey Market from Germany. Beloved.)
1992 240 (244) GL (B230, M47 II, L-jet 3.1, Moonroof. Turbo 240 exhaust? Why?)
RIP, yet beloved:
1975 244 DL (B20, M40. OHV B20 FOREVER! Maroon vroom-vroom! 0-60 in 3 days!)
1976 242 DL (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Wrecked near Skywalker Ranch!)
1979 245 DL (B21, M46. Cheesy mustard yellow and a rod knock in Marin County.)
1979 242 GT (B21, M46, Moonroof - an SRO? Grey Market from Holland. Beloved.)






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