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I have been trying to fine the reason for the no power under load on my sister's '88 244GL 400K. It seems that you foul/flood the plugs up when stepping on the gas vs gradually easing onto it. MAF right? nope,
She took it to a rep local indy Volvo shop and after spending $500 on it for new FPR, FI relay, cap, rotor, plugs (even though I use OE and they had only 15k mi. on them; She still has the problem.
I took the car from them and found the timing belt off a tooth.
Vacuum leak between the ignition computer and the intake manifold.
Major vacuum leak at the accordion intake hose.
Checked all intake seals. Seems tight, only 15K mi on them.
Cleaned FILTHY throttle body and IAC. IAC spring is very weak.
Cleaned and checked TPS. Proper "click"
FI seem a little wet around the seals. Did not replace FI seals when resealing engine at 385K
Checked timing. Balancer mark jumps on each side of the timing cover mark. The jump matches the hiccup in the timing.
She idles great after fixing the above issues but I still have this hiccup idle and no power.
Have swapped with known good MAF, Ign computer,ECU,ign coil, New FI relay, New FPR, cap, wires, plugs
Fuel pumps test good. O2 sensor seems ok.
Empty cat. Blew the guts out in the last 15K mi. No real back pressure?
Checked the pin connections at ALL components for oxidation or open circuits.Esp the pins to the ECU because of the GL sunroof. have not checked the back of the fuse panel. Spun n cleaned fuse panel area.
Checked compression on cold engine (didn't know should have warmed up first)
1:118, 2:117, 3:120, 4:120.
It several/multiple cranks with the FI relay and bay fuse pulled to reach those compression numbers. Was this because of the cold engine or is the cam gear still a tooth off of the crank?
I did replace the distributor with a 130K mi donor last year when the original was so worn. I'm thinking the Hall effect sensor is bad in the dist.
Or is my '88 with the "upgraded" wiring harness bad and I need to remove the harness, cut the loom open and check the wires. I don't trust ohm readings and I don't have a megger.
Side note: I noticed that when I put the tranny in 2 and drive up a hill, when I do get her up in rpms. the tranny doesn't want to shift up to 2nd unless I let off the gas completely. doesn't do this in drive.
I am dissapointed in this shop that I have known for years and always had a good rep;I feel that they really dropped the ball on this one. How can you find what the real problem is when you overlook the fundamentals and maintenance issues.
I'm running out of options and ideas as to what the problem is.
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