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Some of this might be worth doing if it's not too difficult.
The evap canister's absence means the evaporated fuel gets vented to the atmosphere rather than captured in the canister and sucked back into the engine next time it runs. So, if you hook it back up you'll save a teeny tiny amount of fuel via reduced evaporation losses... if you've already got the canister and the hoses, what the heck, why not. If you've got no line on that stuff, no big.
The foam filters are fine. The stock pre-heat system was pretty worthless. BUT: the stock cold air intake was nice, particularly at highway speed. But then, chances are you don't have a complete intake lying around, and putting it back to stock is probably going to be way more trouble than it's worth.
The venting of blowby: NO, you should fix that. Venting to open air leaves your crankcase full of blowby, and exposed to unfiltered air. Minor things, but engines last longer when the air inside them is clean and filtered. If you've got the ports and all you need is a couple hoses, it's a no-brainer: having a positive crankcase ventilation system is a Very Good Thing which reduces your maintenance costs by reducing the fouling of your oil.
The way it's supposed to work: Air is pulled through the air filter, into the crankcase, and blowby (exhaust --> carbon, unburnt fuel, etc) is sucked out of your crankcase and into a restricted vacuum port in your intake manifold. The upside: reduced fouling of your oil, improving the life of your engine, plus a reduction of oily odors emanating from your engine compartment. The downside: not much. A couple hoses to run?
All you need is two hoses:
The one from the flame trap goes to a port inside the air filter. (you might have to install such a port if you've got aftermarket air filters.)
The other one goes from a special restricted port on the intake manifold, to the port on the stock oil cap. Use the stock molded hose for this purpose; they're not expensive.
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