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My goal was to eliminate as many sources of electrical interference as possible, so I ran new cable the entire way from sensor to ICU. This may have been overkill, but maybe it wasn't. I'd been able to make the error code go away from months at a time by cleaning the connectors in the big gray plug at the firewall, so I felt removing that obvious weak point was wise. The idea of cutting open the factory harness and trying to fish out the original knock sensor wire to re-route it seemed like inviting catastrophe.
The wire I used was Belden 18AWG 2 Conductor Shielded Twisted Pair Cable, which I ordered from Altex.com. Quality stuff.
Disconnect the plug from the ICU, then take the back cover off the plug. Once things are opened up, you can remove individual wires with their connectors from the plug body using a tiny screwdriver blade. They are very delicate, and I forget the exact technique, but it is indeed possible to remove them without damage. I folded them back and bound them to the harness with a few wraps of electrical tape. Then once the new wire was fished through the firewall, I attached the 2 new connectors (bought from the dealer, don't know the part #) and seated them in the plug body. Attached a short lead of normal wire to the shielding and ran it over to the ground point in the footwell--plenty of spare terminals there.
Under the hood, I attached the new cable connectors to a used knock sensor connector savaged from a junkyard. I did not want to hack up the existing wiring harness. The old plug got a thick coat of dielectric grease over the contacts and was then ziptied up and out of the way. Should also run a new ground wire from the shielding of the new cable to the injector/coil ground point on the intake manifold.
I have had the hesitation problem a couple of times in the years I've owned the car, but it was always so rare that I cannot say whether it was also solved by this wire re-routing. It hasn't happened since I did this, though.
John
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1989 245 241K / 1993 945 127K
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