|
When you checked the "no spark" condition was it at the coil or at a spark plug?
The reason that I ask is because I recently had a no spark condition on my 87 model 240, and it came and went a few times before the engine finally quit running altogether.
I checked at the coil wire and had good spark, so I assumed that the spark was making it to the spark plugs. I even went as far as looking under the distributor cap and all looked well.
After several days of looking, I was about to give up and admit that I don't know as much about these cars as I thought I did.
I had fuel presure, a hot battery, the injectors were opening, the engine timing (timing belt) was correct, I had good ignition and the car wouldn't hit a single lick.
Finally, as sometimes happens, I started from the beginning (again) and started working my way thru any possible trouble spots.
That day, I had my spark plug tester with me, so I hooked it up to one of the spark plugs.
I was using the underhood starter connection, so I could watch the engine as it turned and hope that something jumped out at me.
Sure enough, the plug wires weren't firing.
I removed the distributor cap again (again) and all looked well.
What the h***?
I had a used distributor in the trunk, so I changed the rotor button just to see, put the cap back on, hit the starter and the engine cranked and ran normally.
I had a failed rotor button.....the first one that I have ever experienced. I mean one that still looked to be in very good condition.
Art alerted me to the fact that these rotor buttons have a resistor built into them between the spot where the rotor rides on the distributor cap button (where the coil wire attaches) and the end of the rotor where the spark jumps to the individual cap contacts (where the spark plug wires attach).
Apparently that resistor was fried.
One thing that I have learned about these cars is that 99% of the time the problem is simple and easy to fix. You just need to look fo the simple things first.
Hope this helps
steve
|
