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Spook, thanks for the award nomination. I must say that the diagnostics
built into the cruise control system are very good. Had I been aware of the
1-1-3 code not showing up because of a problem and not because of the
ambiguity in the description, I would have been done with this fix a day
earlier. So, I will second your evaluation of the troubleshooting cruise
control with the following augmentation.
1. Check the vacuum system integrity first. Disconnect the "T" connector at
the pump and apply vacuum to it using something like a mity vac. Observe
the servo at the throttle contract, pull back the throttle cable and hold
it there for a few minutes. If this checks out proceed to 2. Otherwise find
the source of a leak in the vacuum system. Mine was in the brake pedal
switch, which I guess is common. I found my vacuum pedal switch/valve to
not hold vacuum. Removing the switch and disassembling it revealed the
o-ring not fitting the plunger snugly. I wrapped two layers of teflon tape
on the plunger and reassembled. This fixed the vacuum problem. I then
retested and the vacuum held.
2. Perform OBD tests regarding the cruise control. To do this, connect the
fly wire from the diagnostic block A to socket 2 on diagnostic block B.
Turn the ignition to "ON" position and ress the button on the block A for
one second. If the code comes back as 1-2-2, things most likely are okay.
This code means the signal from the speed sensor has not been received.
It's not a failure yet since the system erases the codes every time the
ignition is turned off and when you turn it back on the initial status is
no signal from the speed sensor since that only comes once the speed
exceeds 22 MPH. If you leave the diagnostic connected and go for a ride and
then perform this test BEFORE you shut down the ignition the code should
come back 1-1-1. If it does not then the code table in the FAQ should be
used to identify the issue. If the code comes back 1-1-1, then everything
is fine with this test and you should proceed to mode 2 of this test. Mode
2 is where you can check the various electrical controls such as the turn
signal stalk buttons and sliders as well as the brake light and neutral
cut-off switch. To do this test turn the ignition to "ON" and connect the
diagnostic wire to B2 as in mode 1. But this time you press the button
twice holding it down for about a second each time. The light on the
diagnostic block will start blinking rapidly. This means you are in mode 2.
While the light is blinking rapidly slide the cruise control selector from
ON to OFF or from OFF to ON, it really doesn't matter for this test. As the
selector transitions from ON to OFF or OFF to ON, observe the light on the
diagnostic block. It should stop blinking rapidly and issue a code of
1-1-3. If no code at this point, then the stalk switch is likely at fault.
This was the case with me. The FAG is a bit misleading on this. It states:
"Depress brake then clutch pedal for one second" for this test. This is
incorrect to get 1-1-3 code you need to move the cruise control selector on
the turn signal stalk from OFF to ON or ON to OFF. If 1-1-3 appears, then
the light starts to blink rapidly again, then the system is ready for the
next test. The order of these tests is irrelevant. The next test could be
the RESUME function of the selector switch. Start with the selector in ON
position. While the light on the diagnostic block is blinking rapidly slide
the selector to RESUME and let go. The rapid blinking should stop and code
1-2-3 should be issued. If no code, again, suspect the turn signal stalk.
Next test the SET function. While the light is rapidly blinking press the
SET button on the turn signal stalk. Code 1-3-1 should come out. If not,
again, the turn signal stalk wiring is suspect. If all these tests pass
then go on to the brake light switch test. While the diagnostic light is
blinking rapidly press the brake pedal. Code 1-3-2 should be issued. If no
code here, check the brake light switch. Lastly the Start inhibitor switch.
While the light is blinking rapidly shift the transmission to neutral. Code
2-2-3 should come out. I belive this is only for automatic cars. If you
have a manual transmission you would perform a clutch test much like the
brake pedal test. My car is automatic and I can't say from experience how
to test the manual.
If any of the codes did not show up, there is an electrical problem and
should be followed up. If the three codes corresponding to the turn signal
controls do not show up, remove the shroud around the steering wheel (two
small torx screws on the top and two slightly larger torx screws on the
bottom) and gain access to the turn signal stalk wiring and examine it.
Mine had a broken blue/green wire right at the point where plastic of the
stalk ends. The wire was broken very close to the edge of plastic, but I
was able to strip enough of it to solder it back and apply some shrink
tubing. I really did not feel I needed to spend money on the new stalk. If
I had no been able to solder as it was, I would have cut the plastic around
the stalk a little to get a bit more length on the broken wire. However, I
was successful in soldering it the way it was, so the fix was simple.
Diagnostics were troublesome because of misleading FAQ about the 1-1-3
code. Perhaps part or all of this post can be used to fix the FAQ. As of
this moment it is still the way it was.
3. If all the above checks out good, then I would test the vacuum pump by
applying 12V to the bottom terminal and GND to the middle and top terminals
at the same time. This should activate the pump and the vacuum control
valve at the same time and cause the servo at the throttle to contract
(remember to re-connect the "T" to the black nipple on the bottom of the
pump, the white nipple is vent to atmosphere and should be left open). If
the GND is removed from the middle, but left on the top terminal the servo
should stay contracted and hold vacuum.
4. If everything checks out to this point then it's time to question the
control module, but so far I am not sure if there is even a single
confirmed module failure reported in the community.
Thanks again to everyone who tried to help.
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