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Hi Susan,
Just a quick post to let you know you've not been forgotten, and I'll be back here with some ideas when I get my ducks in a row (within the 2 hour edit window).
Two things that I will expand on:
1) Testing coil before messing with distributor.
2) A way you can crank-test without asking your neighbor for help.
Back already, after looking at your last post
"In other words, are there only two plugs and the coil wire that attach to the coil, or should there be one more?"
• Just the two plugs, 2-wire and 3-wire. And FYI, that metal "Push-on" terminal in the middle has 12 volts on it when the key is on position 2 (often abbreviated KPII). I'll tell you shortly how to use that terminal to crank/start the motor with no outside help.**
Testing coil before messing with distributor. Seems more logical to me, since the coil "feeds" the distributor. My suggestion is to:
1. Disconnect the main coil wire at the bottom of the distributor. It pulls straight down (grasp the "collar" not the wire itself) and there will be some resistance from a spring/ring lock that keeps it attached.
2. With the coil wire off, connect the distributor end to one of your plugs. [Maybe remove the other 3 to make it easier to crank-test.]
3. Position the plug on a bare metal ground surface, in a way that you can watch for a bunch of sparks (4 times as many).
4. Follow the steps below to crank the motor and check for sparks at the plug.
Crank-testing as a solo act
1. Some new items needed: a) some "Fast-on/Push-on" terminals both Male and Female. One of each for what follows.
Shop Radio Shack or Electronics at Lowes, etc.
2. These terminals get "crimped" to the bare wire after stripping off about 3/8" of insulation. A wire-stripper is nice to have but it can be done carefully and gently with a sharp knife. [Google wire crimping pliers and wire strippers. Harbor Freight is good enough.]
3. Under the hood, locate the Starter Service Socket pictured below. The starter will be engaged when 12V is applied to the female terminal inside the blue plastic cover. Of course the shifter lever must be in Park or Neutral. The key can be ON or OFF, but we want it ON (KPII) here, to activate the FI and Ignition circuits for testing.
4. Connect your testing wire on the Service Socket, then (cautiously - you'll be making some noise) touch the other test wire end to the exposed metal terminal at the back of the coil/amplifier unit. ** See double asterisk above.
5. The starter should spin the motor, so you can watch the plug on the detached coil wire for sparks.
--
Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63.
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