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Ball joints require no special tools. They are not pressed into the control arm, and the only minor hitch in replacement is the strut anchor, which can be a pain to break free, and to reseat tightly enough so that the new spindle nut can be torqued down.
Ball-joints connect from the control arm to the bottom of the strut assembly. Tie-rods connect from the steering rack to the strut assembly.
The tie-rod ends can be difficult. If you are replacing them, just whack them out with a hammer. I have never found a press that fits securely around the knuckle to which the tie-rod end attaches, but a small pitman arm puller is close. I have beat them out with a hammer even when re-using them, but you risk mushrooming the top and damaging threads.
You will need a spring compressor for the strut. Do NOT attempt the job without one.
The top nut on the strut can be removed and reinstalled with an impact wrench. Be careful, use sense.
You can use a hammer and drift to knock the old strut "gland nut" or retainer nut loose, as long as your new struts came with replacements; you are likely to seriously damage the nut this way. The new nut (or the old one, if you have to re-use it) can be tightened down with a giant pair of channel locks, or a pipe wrench, assuming you do not have a special tool for the job, and that you don't care to make one (not that hard with metal-working skills). If you try to use one of these tools to tighten the gland nut, be very careful not to slip and scar the strut piston, lest it destroy the seals when compressed.
Good luck.
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