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Seriously, a thread like this and nobody mentioned a tie rod end fork? Go get one NOW. Looks like a heavy duty tuning fork. Rings like one too when you hit it.
http://thumbs4.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mDB6Hpu4Dt6PK9iQHOtjVLA.jpg
I'm not trying to be a jerk, but anyone doing this work must know about tools like this. I guess we are all here to learn, I don't know, I've had one in my toolbox since I was 16. People say they damage boots and so on- well, you're usually throwing away the bad part!
As for strut top nut, I have been able to remove mine with an impact wrench and 15/16" socket. (Do this with car on the ground, not jacked up, then tighten back on part way so you can remove completely later.)
HOWEVER, putting them back on stumped me. I needed to hold the strut rod end from turning but a socket goes over the end. You can make a tool that works. Take a 1/2 inch drive 15/16" socket. Grind 2 parallel flats onto the drive end (square end) of the socket, and find a big wrench that fits the flats you've made. Now you need a tool to fit the strut rod end. If they're Bilsteins, an allen wrench will do the trick. If the cartridge rod end looks like an oval, you need the special socket, or you'll want to grind a slot into a small socket or socket extension- a 3/8" drive, probably to fit down the middle of the other socket.
For getting the strut tube gland nut apart, I used a pipe wrench. A 14" Ridgid wrench fit in there pretty well as I recall. And I bought a set of K/D Tools macpherson strut spring compressors. They were heavy-duty and $10 more than cheapo ones. Follow the directions carefully and DON'T GET HURT. You have a lot of energy wrapped up in those springs when you're taking a strut apart!
--Rob
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