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I just went to try & restart the volvo after letting it sit all night. Before I went to start it, I looked at the wires on the cold start injector. When I pulled the boot back, I saw that one of the wires had come loose out of the connector. I pulled the plug off and saw the old blue/green wire that was clipped, so mine has the TSB performed on it with a black/gray wire and a red/green wire. I pushed the red/green wire back into the plug until it went back into place & reconnected everything. So that will probably fix my cold start issues.
I then decided to clear out the OBD codes that I listed in my last post & do some of the diagnostic testing with the system. Here is the testing procedure I followed:
"3. Diagnostic Test Mode 2: System Sensor Signal Test. This tests whether signals are received from certain sensors and switches. If they are, then a code flashes so indicating it.
For vehicles equipped with air conditioning, turn the a/c control to "on."
Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 6 for ignition-related tests.
Press the button two times for >1 and <3 seconds each. The LED lamp should flash rapidly. (If nothing flashes, see No Code.)
Check the throttle position switch by turning the throttle pivot wheel slightly from within the engine compartment. The LED should go out and then flash code 3-3-4 which indicates proper operation of the TPS. If no code is flashed and the lamp keeps flashing, the TPS is faulty.
After the tests, the LED should keep flashing.
Remove the ignition coil center lead and crank the starter motor; the engine will not start but it will turn over. The LED should go out, then flash 1-4-1 for the RPM sensor. If no code is flashed and the lamp keeps flashing, the RPM sensor is faulty. Reinstall the coil lead and turn the ignition key ON to KPII.
Install the cable into socket 2 for fuel injection-related tests.
Press the button two times for >1 and <3 seconds each. The LED lamp should flash.
Activate the following sensors. If the LED diagnostic code shown (note: this is not a fault code) is present then the sensor or component is OK:
TPS OK in full load position (when throttle is moved from full load) 3-3-3
TPS OK in idle position (when throttle is moved from idle) 3-3-2
RPM sensor signal from ignition OK 3-3-1
A/C control on/off OK (when a/c switch is depressed or released) 1-1-4
A/C compressor start OK 1-3-4
Engine idle speed compensation for automatic tran OK 1-2-4 (depress the brake pedal, move the selector to D and then to N.)
Exit Mode 2 by switching off the ignition.
4. Diagnostic Test Mode 3: Injection System Component Activation Test
Turn the ignition ON to KPII and install the cable into socket 2 for fuel-injection-related tests.
Press the button three times for one second each time (waiting between >1 and <3 seconds before pressing again)
The diagnostic unit then sequentially tests the following components: engine coolant fan (if equipped), fuel injectors, idle air control solenoid valve, carbon filter solenoid valve (if equipped), cold start valve, radio suppression relay and fuel pump. No code is produced: you have to listen or feel each in turn to make sure it is operating.
Exit by switching off the ignition."
The throttle position switch, rpm sensor, a/c control, and engine idle speed compensation for automatic transmission all checked out okay. So the car passed everything in test mode 2.
I then started into test mode 3. The sequential testing of the multiple components began while I listened under the hood. I do not have some of the items that are listed as "if equipped" above. I realize that fuel injectors are hard to hear, so I put my hand on one of the injectors, but I couldn't hear or feel if they were firing off. I could hear the idle air control flap open and close three times. I couldn't hear the cold start valve, but I don't know how much noise it's really even supposed to make. The radio suppression relay clicked on and off 6 times. Finally the relay next to the radio suppression relay clicked once, which I assume is the fuel pump clicking on & off during testing.
So, idle air control, radio suppression relay, fuel pump, and throttle position switch, and the rpm sensor seemed to check out during testing.
After I couldn't hear or feel the fuel injectors, I pulled one of the injector plugs, got the voltmeter, and confirmed that voltage was reaching the injectors.
After testing everything, I went to start the volvo finally. It wouldn't start at all. Even after sitting all night. I did reconnect the ignition coil lead after testing, so that's not it.
Does anyone have any suggestions about where I should go from here?
Thanks,
Ben
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