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I pulled the whole length out of a junker once and it's not an easy job.
After it leaves the firewall it hugs the right side of the cars floorboard. In hug, I mean it travel around and down under everything plus those seat brace pans. It goes into nooks and crannies to keep itself protected from being pinched.
To top all that off,in places that they thought it might slip, they put that black gummy/ sticky stuff on the body and pushed the hose into it. You do not get a length loose and just pull it out, you have to work for it if you want to keep it in one long piece.
If you try to remove it whole, put that knife you have a long ways away from yourself. There will be many times you will just want to cut it! The biggest hassle is around the B pillar and the seat belt retractor area.
There are no check valves except for the one you found at the tailgate area. I am not convinced they are needed as the pump will still fill things up fairly quickly from that point upwards.
The use of an air compressor will go a long ways to help get the crud out. Some windshield washer fluid biodegrades over time into a white substance that is similar to looking at a bunch of mushy/white styrofoam balls.
Until you get all of those washed/disolved out of the hose the nozzles will keep getting plugged up.
You might try a weakened solution of white vinegar and water or an all purpose cleaner that will not attack the rubber of the hose.
A trick of using an ear syringe or a pistol pump type oil can might power it through also.
The distance of diametrical resistance does not help the situation. I doubt you can blow them up as it will expand which might be an advantage to moving out the crud. That is, if you can get anything to soak past the blockage. If not, go between the ends and blow both ways. You can always get an in-line splice fitting.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Phil
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